Crisscross Eyelets Socks
Apr 30th, 2010 by knittykat
Crisscross Eyelets Socks
By Katherine Myers
I was recently asked by a family member for a sock that is pretty and lacy but not “drafty.” After asking a few questions I realized that she was asking for something that has a lace design but also provides a bit more warmth than many lace patterns. I hope my contribution of Crisscross Eyelets is satisfying to her and all who knit it.
Materials: sock weight yarn, 100 grams. Shown in Elann’s Sock It To Me in the currently unavailable colors of rust and hunter.
Needles: Size US #1-2 dpn’s. Of course I use Comfort Zone Needles. You can also use two circulars.
Gauge – 8 stitches per inch.
Cast on 64 stitches loosely. (Note: I usually cast on using a size US #3 to make the stitches stretchy). Arrange on four double pointed needles (16 – 16 – 16 – 16). Switch back to US #2 needles. Work one to two inches of k2, p2 ribbing. Then work one round of straight stockinette.
Instructions: (Or see chart below)
Row 1: Knit around
NOTE: Repeat instructions on each of the 4 needles around.
Row 2: k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k4.
Row 3: All uneven rows = knit around
Row 4: k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k5. Repeat on all 4 needles.
Row 6: k2tog, yo, k5, yo, sl1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, yo, k4, k2tog, yo.
Row 8: k2, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1.
Row 10: k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2.
Row 12: k4, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k3tog, yo, k3.
Row 14: k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k4.
Row 16: k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k5.
Row 18: k2tog, yo, k5, yo, sl1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, yo, k4, k2tog, yo.
Row 20: k2, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1.
Row 22: k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2.
Row 24: k4, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k3tog, yo, k3.
CHART:
Heel flap:
As you begin the heel flap you will incorporate all of the heel stitches onto one needle for ease in knitting back and forth. You can place the stitches on needles 1 and 2 onto waste yarn if the needles are in the way and this makes it easier for you.
I always use the same style flap and gusset heel because it seems to fit well but you can use any style you wish. If you choose to knit a short-row heel you can skip knitting the wrap as you knit across to give a textured effect. Also, an afterthought heel makes color changes pop.
Row 1:
Sl 1 knitwise, p31.
Row 2:
Sl 1 knitwise, * K1, Sl 1* repeat from * until last stitch, K1.
Repeat above 2 rows until heel flap is approximately 2” deep or slightly less for a smaller foot.
Turning the heel: (Begin on a purl row)
Row 1:sl1, purl 18, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog, k1, turn
Continue across each knit and purl row as follows:
Purl to the gap created by the short-row, p2tog across the gap, p1 and turn.
On the knit row, knit across the row to the gap created by the short-row, k2tog, k1 and turn. Continue in this manner until all stitches on the needle are finished.
When the heel flap and cup are completed, start the gusset.
Finish the heel cup on a knit row, and begin to pick up stitches along the side of the heel flap. Pick up one more stitch in the gap where the heel flap meets the front stitches to prevent a hole. Now knit across the 32 stitches on the two front needles. (Note: If you have removed the stitches from needles 1 and 2 to waste yarn, this is the point at which you need to replace the stitches on the two needles). When you reach the end of the front needles pick up at least the same number of stitches along the other side of the heel flap with your extra needle.
Gusset:
As you knit across the heel stitches you are back to four needles with 16 and 16 on the front needles and all the extra stitches divided evenly on the back two needles.
Your gusset rows now start from here.
Round 1 – Knit across the front two needles. On needle #3 k1, ssk and continue across both back needles to the last 3 stitches on the fourth needle, then k2tog, k1. You have decreased 2 stitches in the heel gusset.
Round 2 – Knit around.
Continue these two rows until all needles once again contain 16 stitches each. (Note: due to the fact that I have a narrow foot, at this point I reduce the number of stitches to 15 stitches and reduce again to 14 stitches after an inch or two of knitting).
If you choose to continue the design on the front of the sock you will be repeating the chart or instructions two times instead of four and using plain stockinette on the sole of the sock. You may also choose to purl the sole of the sock on needles 3 & 4 so that the smooth stockinette side is inside the sock, and smooth against your foot.
Foot:
Knit until the foot is two inches short of the end of the toes. (When you start the foot you can try on the sock to keep track of the length. There are also charts available telling exactly how many inches to knit before the toe for each shoe size).
Toe:
Round 1, Needle 1 – K1, ssk.
Round 1, Needle 2 – Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Round 1, Needle 3 – K1, ssk.
Round 1, Needle 4 - Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Round 2 – K all sts.
Continue this until there are 3 stitches left on each needle. Cut yarn about 6 inches long and, using tapestry needle, weave yarn end through all stitches and pull tight. Run yarn through to inside and weave in end.
You may also knit until there are 12 stitches remaining and use Kitchener stitch to join the remaining stitches. If you choose to graft the toe in this way you may want to add a Round 3 of knit all stitches to make the toe at least 2 inches long.
Copyright © 2010 by Katherine Myers. All rights reserved. These instructions are intended for your own personal use. You may distribute them freely as long as copyright is intact and attributed to designer. Any questions or comments may be sent to knittykat AT sbcglobal DOT net.
